Chichicastenango

'Antes de la tormenta'...

Like a volcano at the point of eruption is Chichicastenango on the eve of the Sunday market. The early arrivals have set up their booths and are now sitting down to eat hot corn tortillas, freshly made by hand, topped with vegetables and meat. In front of the church, worshippers burn incense and say prayers over lit candles. Everyone is in waiting, saving their energies for tomorrow's show. The backpackers trickle in, in search of hostels. Women carrying wrapped bundles on their heads or shoulders pass by men bearing loads on their backs, stooped over under the weight, all for the exchange and barter of goods.

The sky darkens. The streetlights come on. The smell of incense floats through the air. The people get ready. The birds sing each other to sleep.